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Gordon

How to custom paint a scaleauto

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After taking  the body out of the bag all parts where washed with dishwashing detergent. Allow to air dry. The paint used is a mr hobby mr finishing surface primer 1500 gray. I use this because its a fine grain primer.

 

Normal painting rules apply! Warm weather, paint out doors,wear a mask.

 

All parts have now been given a dusting coat. This will be allowed to dry for three days before checking and applying a second coat.

 

In the next segment i will show applying the colour using a airbrush using gravity paints/ these are true matched paints so giving  corret colour.

 

In my last segment i will go into decaling the magic art. Using decal softing agents, tricks and tips.

 

Or for a small fee of $200 per body i can custom paint for you.

 

Include are scaleauto dodge viper in primer stage.

 

Example of a full custom carbon fibre cover 1/24 car.

 

And a prize winning bike.

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More work do. Ok so the primer has dried and i have began to paint the body in a white enamel paint. This will be one of three coats with the final coat to be sanded with 2000 and 4000 grit sand paper.

 

Also while the white paint drys the photo etch was primed with etch primer and painted black. Also the head lights have reacived a coat of chrome plate.

 

More to come in the next few days.

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Great to watch a quality paint job under way Gordon . As an old spray painter myself,  your technique is solid . My only question is the weight of body at the end ? I have used similar techniques to achieve quality paint jobs and won concourse with them , but have been smashed by the racers in the group who have said body was to heavy. I still love detail and quality model cars . At the end of the day we are model car racers . Would love to have it both ways of looking awesome but still light . I haven’t found the answer yet . Looking forward to watch the model come alive. 

  

Cheers Pagey 

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On 24/03/2018 at 8:18 AM, Pagey said:

Great to watch a quality paint job under way Gordon . As an old spray painter myself,  your technique is solid . My only question is the weight of body at the end ? I have used similar techniques to achieve quality paint jobs and won concourse with them , but have been smashed by the racers in the group who have said body was to heavy. I still love detail and quality model cars . At the end of the day we are model car racers . Would love to have it both ways of looking awesome but still light . I haven’t found the answer yet . Looking forward to watch the model come alive. 

  

Cheers Pagey 

Afternoon Pagey

Yes your concerns are ture and solid. One must weight the parts and be mindful of the coats of paint your adding. I tend to weight my paint, before adding to my airbrush. The primer in total was around 1gram or there abouts. Clear coat will be about 20ml unsure of its weight as never used 2k clear.

 

A pre painted viper body is about 68 to 70 grams. At the moment im sitting at 40 grams so well on the way to being lighter. 

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Hi Gordon,

 

Just on a point of order - not sure where you found the pre-painted Viper body that weighed in at 68 to 70grams. As the minimum body weight (including the metal body mounts) have always been 55 grams. Are you referring to it having the hard plastic interior and windows or using the lexan bits. It has been my experience that most of my racing bodies required some additional weight to get them to the 55gram minimum, so I have to agree with Pagey's concerns, especially if the paint end up adding the weight in the wrong places (maybe still within the 55g minimum).

 

Just my 2c

 

JanR 

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Hello all,

 

I dont see there being any real concerns when it comes to refinishing a 'white body' kit.

 

Yes weight could be a concern if you were loading it with acrylic based paints using a brush. Truth is, if using aerosols or an airbrush, the manner in which these paints are atomised poses no issues. Especially using a solvent ( thinners ) based paint. 

 

To help put this into perspective, most if not all modern day motor vehicles have a paint thickness of around 70 - 180 microns ( 1 micron = 1/1000th of a millimetre ).

 

The volume used ( or at least mixed ) to refinish a new bar cover is around 400 - 500mls reduced ( 2:1 thinning ratio ) given the SG of automotive basecoats is around 1ml = 1g. So theoretically we use 500g of basecoat to refinish a new front bar cover on a VF Commodore. 

 

If you scale that right down to say a 24th scale model, we would be adding somewhere in the vicinty of 1- 1.5 grams of basecoat on a body. Clearcoats are similar in body ( particularly 2K clears ). 

 

I have attached 2 images , one is a finished RevoSlot body, the other i painted myself. I used an adhesion promoter, then a coat of black , then 2 coats of chrome & for memory a good 3 coats of candy yellow . Applied some Flying Lizard decals & finally finished it off with 2 'good' coats of clear.

 

As you will see ..... there isnt much between them 

 

Cheers

 

Benno

 

  

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That’s the best way to answer questions. With knowledge, experience and facts . Thanks for the answer Benno. With yourself and Gordon on the paint scene, it’s inspiring me to start painting again . Just have to finish off details on track and prep for MCN . 🧐👍🏻🤓

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Just to follow up on what Jan was saying, I just weighed my SA Audi body that i have Shoe-Goo'd the front & rear ends to prevent parts falling off under racing conditions ( ok ok i know ..... crashing ). It only weighs 55.4g 

 

@Pagey .... didnt really want to say anything for fear of it been seen as geek speak, but i think a common misnomer is the issue of to paint or not to paint !!! 

 

I would much rather see a grid full of highly detailed Scale Model Cars than none because people think its too heavy etc. 

 

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Excellent answers Benno. I share your views and vividly remember the first Scaleauto worlds when the only bodies we hard, were white bodies we had to paint. This made for a grid filled with an array of schemes which was an absolute delight.

 

Well done Gordon - maybe the scale you are using is playing up.....LOL.

 

Cheers,

 

JanR 

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Sorry Gordon, seemed to have hijacked your great painting tuitioral. Please keep posting the how to . 

 

Cheers Pagey

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On ‎25‎/‎03‎/‎2018 at 9:16 PM, Springbok Racer said:

Hi Gordon,

 

Just on a point of order - not sure where you found the pre-painted Viper body that weighed in at 68 to 70grams. As the minimum body weight (including the metal body mounts) have always been 55 grams. Are you referring to it having the hard plastic interior and windows or using the lexan bits. It has been my experience that most of my racing bodies required some additional weight to get them to the 55gram minimum, so I have to agree with Pagey's concerns, especially if the paint end up adding the weight in the wrong places (maybe still within the 55g minimum).

 

Just my 2c

 

JanR 

Dear Jan

 

Noel weighted his Dodge Viper Body for me which came in at 68 grams, I think with the metal body mounts

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To all thank you for all the input, this is what the hobby is about, sharing information, and helping each other.

 

Update!  the wheels and brakes have been painted, considering adding tyre valves. have started on the insides on the Viper. Weight so far is way way under the weight of that Audi, or Noels Viper. Yippee basically id sooner be under weight and add it as required. 

 

More photos are to come.  I will also follow up with the Monster Energy Dodge Viper for Noel, and a sick Merc call black Falcon for Cameron.

 

Watch this SPACE. 

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5 hours ago, Gordon said:

Dear Jan

 

Noel weighted his Dodge Viper Body for me which came in at 68 grams, I think with the metal body mounts

 

 No problem Gordon, very unlike Noel to race such an over weight body. Anyway here is a photo of one of my pre-painted RTR Vipers including all the metal body mounting plates and screws.

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Please continue with your very informative how-to, we can all learn from it.

 

Cheers,

 

JanR 

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2 hours ago, Springbok Racer said:

 

 No problem Gordon, very unlike Noel to race such an over weight body. Anyway here is a photo of one of my pre-painted RTR Vipers including all the metal body mounting plates and screws.

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Please continue with your very informative how-to, we can all learn from it.

 

Cheers,

 

JanR 

Thanks Jan

 

Yes more to come over the next few days

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Some of todays progress. Cars painted mostly with Tamiya laquer paints. Both cars are now clear coated with 2k clear. Drying outside. So photos and more details latter

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Some of todays progress. Cars painted mostly with Tamiya laquer paints. Both cars are now clear coated with 2k clear. Drying outside. So photos and more details latter

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Got a lot of decaling done today. Weighed the car complete. Very happy.

 

I will go back and add photos and information tomorrow night.

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Wow I was just getting interested - what happened? The last post was April 1 - is that significant?

 

Where is the guff regarding decal techniques?----please I would like any info on this.

 

Cheers

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